The Cullan at Mineral Mound: Gem of the Kentucky State Parks

Long before the land on the shores of Lake Barkley, Kentucky, was a golf course – or even before it was a state park – it was the family farm of Willis B. Machen, grandfather of Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald. The tempestuous Zelda was a celebrated writer and the wife of author F. Scott Fitzgerald. One of my favorite F. Scott Fitzgerald stories is The Diamond as Big as The Ritz. Although that story is set in Montana (and is actually extremely dark), I couldn’t help but think about it as I played The Cullan at Mineral Mound State Park: the golf course is a real gem, and since it is a golf course, it is technically bigger than The Ritz-Carleton Hotel.

The Kentucky State Parks system consists of over 45 parks, with a dozen golf courses sprinkled throughout the parks across the state. The Cullan is one of the newest and was designed by renowned golf course architects Dr. Michael Hurdzan and Dana Fry (who also designed Erin Hills, site of the 2017 U.S. Open and 2025 U.S. Women’s Open).

The par-72 layout measures 6,561 yards from the back tees, up to 4,411 yards from the most forward tees. The 600-yard gap between 1 Tees and 2 Tees is a bit large, making the decision about where to play tricky. Because the course is hewn out of dense hardwood forests, and several holes on the front side include carries over the waters of Lake Barkley, there are a fair number of “target golf” holes, along with plentiful blind landing areas. The best advice, then, is for even longer hitters to play the 5,964-yard 2 Tees. In the words of the starter, “Big and strong is not your friend here. Leave your driver in the bag on a lot of holes. Just find that 150-yard marker and hit the club that will get you there.”

Although it is very true that precision is more important here than power, this advice doesn’t hold for every hole – prudent use of the long-ball will serve players well, as long as the ball stays in play (which is easier said than done).

Playing The Cullan at Mineral Mound

I’m going to be brutally honest here: I shot my worst score in two years on The Cullan. This is a course where local knowledge REALLY pays off. As mentioned, there are blind landing areas off the tee, blind landing areas for second shots on par 5s, blind approaches to greens, blind hazards. Toss in the blinding rainstorm we finished our round in, and it felt like about a dozen more rounds would’ve been needed before the scales could fall from my eyes.

The rocky ditch on Hole 1 on The Cullan at Mineral Mound demands some strategic yardage calculations.

Despite the advice above that power isn’t paramount here, the opening nine actually do demand some muscle. Hole 1 is a short par 5, but there is a rocky ditch cutting across the fairway, so if you lay too far back off the tee, the ditch becomes an issue on your second. Holes 2, 4, and 5 likewise require some controlled strength. All are cape holes, with elevated tees, carries across water or valleys, and fairways angled from right to left about 90-degrees from the teeing grounds. So long draws off the tee will put you in great position—flare your tee shots to the right, or hit them dead straight, and you’ll end up in fairway bunkers or woods; don’t take enough club, and you’ll be wet.

The short par-4 2nd Hole on The Cullan requires a decent carry — but not too decent!

The advice to find the 150-yard marker also misleads at the short par-4 18th. I followed the advice, hitting a hybrid basically next to the 150-yard marker. When I arrived at my ball, I realized the 90-degree dogleg right required a tee shot 40 yards past the 150-yard stake just to see the green. Again, local knowledge is critical here.

The 452-yard, par-4 17th Hole is the longest par 4 on the course, but it is literally the first comfortable driving hole for first-timers. There’s finally enough room to feel like you can freely swing your driver, rather than aiming it.

Despite the difficulty of play associated with such a hilly, woodsy, target-y design, the land and waters of Lake Barkley are quite lovely. The Bermuda fairways and bentgrass greens were in good early-season shape, and the white-sand bunkers were well maintained. And several holes are truly memorable.

The aforementioned Hole 2 is just 306 yards from the tips, but a strong, controlled draw will get you around the trees to the blind landing area just short of the green. As noted though, a big straight ball will sail over those bunkers across the fairway.

The 389-yard, par-4 5th is another cape hole where a powerful draw really helps. Blind tee shots even continue at the downhill par-3 7th, where the green might be occluded by the end of the tee elevated tee box, depending on which tees you play.

The par-4 5th Hole at The Cullan is yet another cape hole that demands careful club selection and accuracy.
I had to walk up to the front of the Number 2 tee box to see the green at the par-3 7th Hole — could only see treetops from the tee blocks.

The par-5 13th consists of one blind shot after another. My layup over a hill to what I thought was the center of the fairway, apparently found a steep hillside and ran into the woods. The longest of the par 5s, this triple-dogleg is practically unplayable on your first visit here – you simply can’t tell where to aim from tee to green.

The Cullan, Hole 16

The par-3 16th plays over water to a wide, shallow green, capping off a nice, varied collection of one-shotters. And again, the long 17th is really the first and only tee shot where newbies are likely to feel comfortable, because even though the fairway is lined on both sides by thick woods, it is wider than the other fairways on the course—you’ll probably even see your ball land!

Hole 17 at The Cullan: Finally, a stress-free driving hole!

The Cullan at Mineral Mound State Park: The Verdict

The Cullan is a scenic course that demands control off the tee. Length will be rewarded, but selectively. Greens are often elevated, and going long at most of them usually results in a lost ball. This layout was carved out of the state park forest, and most holes are isolated from their neighbors, with long drives between greens and tees. Given these distances and the extremely hilly topography, it is not walkable, unfortunately. Because familiarity with the course will undoubtedly help scoring, I would recommend booking two rounds here — you’ll probably enjoy your second one much more (and lose far fewer balls!). If you want to play more, or are looking for nearby alternatives, I recommend Kentucky Dam Village State Park Golf Course in Calvert City (about 30 min. away). This course was laid out by the legendary golf course architect Perry Maxwell, and it requires considerably less local knowledge, as most of the holes are right in front of you. The cabins at Kentucky Dam Village are comfortable and affordable, too.

Finally, a word about the course’s moniker, “The Cullan.” The course at Mineral Mound was renamed posthumously after Cullan Brown, who had a distinguished amateur career nationally, internationally, and at the University of Kentucky. A posthumous inductee into the Kentucky Golf Hall of Fame, Cullan grew up playing at Mineral Mound. As his playing career was really taking off, he was diagnosed with cancer in his leg, and he died shortly thereafter. By all accounts, the young man was not only a fantastic player, but also a fantastic person, with a heart as big as The Ritz.

Course namesake, Cullan Brown. May his memory be a blessing.

80th U.S. Women’s Open at Erin Hills

I covered the 2004 U.S. Women’s Open at The Orchards Golf Club in South Hadley, MA, on the campus of Mount Holyoke College. There were a lot of legendary veterans in that field – Hall of Fame types: Laura Davies, Julie Inkster, Annika Sorenstam, Karie Webb, Lorena Ochoa, and eventual winner, Meg Mallon. Two things about that tournament really stand out in my memory. One, Meg Mallon had no apparel sponsor; she had to buy caps and polos in the merchandise tent. Two, there were a couple young amateurs who were already causing a lot of buzz in the golf world. Maybe you’ve heard of them? One was named Paula Creamer, who was 17 at the time and playing in her second U.S. Open. Another was Michelle Wie, who was just 14 and also playing in her second U.S. Open. Then there was the unknown first-round leader in the clubhouse, 18-year-old Brittany Lincicome, who was playing in her first U.S. Open and who would turn pro shortly after her eventual 55th-place finish. All three would do their part to change the face and reputation of the LPGA. Creamer and Wie would each win a U.S. Women’s Open in the coming years. Lincicome would win two majors, but no national title. This all seems like yesterday to me, but all three of these “young guns” are now retired—so yesterday it was not.

14-year-old Michelle Wie at the 2004 U.S. Women’s Open

Fast-forward to 2025. The 80th U.S. Women’s Open was played at Erin Hills, venue of the 2017 U.S. (Men’s) Open, rather than on the campus of a private college. Whereas Meg Mallon won $560,000 for her 2004 victory, the winner this year, Maja Stark, earned a cool $2.4 million. And yes, she had an apparel contract. Women’s professional golf has changed dramatically in the intervening 21 years. Erin Hills wasn’t even in existence back in 2004. This stroll down memory-fairway begs the question: Which amateurs or rookies in 2025 will shape professional golf over the coming 20 years? Will any of the current players be playing in the U.S. Open in 20, even? No one on the first pages of the leaderboard on the final day in 2025 was entered in 2004. Many were still in diapers, and a couple weren’t even born.

Fan favorite Charley Hull sticks her approach for an opening birdie on Day 1.
Another fan favorite, Lexi Thompson, on Day 2. She didn’t make the cut.

Erin Hills: A worthy major venue

Erin Hills opened in 2008, originally intended as a “poor man’s Whistling Straits.” But just three years after the Michael Hurdzan, Dana Fry, and Ron Whitten collaborative design opened in Erin (35 mi. NW of Milwaukee), it was hosting the 2011 U.S. Amateur. In 2017, it hosted Wisconsin’s first men’s U.S. Open. What makes this 7,812-yard, par 72 course, which climbs and tumbles over natural dairy cattle pastureland, such a favorite of the USGA?

I posed this question to Dr. Hurdzan, and he provided his thoughts:

“I think that there are many factors that [the USGA] likes: a) [Erin Hills] is in the Midwest close to huge markets like Chicago, Milwaukee, Minneapolis, etc.; b) the course can accommodate upwards of 100,000 spectators per day, all of whom can be close to the action; c) the course can be a stern test of shot-making, strategy, and endurance worthy for crowning a National Champion; d) there is loads of room for corporate areas and parking; e) the course is very photogenic and will look terrific on TV; f) it is a public course; g) Erin Hills’ maintenance philosophy is environmentally in tune with the USGA Philosophy.”

The diabolical par-3 9th Hole at Erin Hills — shortest hole on the course, and one of the hardest.

Even the expansive practice facility is special. Dr. Hurdzan points out that “…the ‘practice/learning center’… has to be one of the best in golf by any measure. This facility has it all, and yet it does not prevent using the rest of the land for another golf course if they should choose to do that.”  

Most of all, though, Dr. Hurdzan characterizes the course, and the idyllic atmosphere of the grounds, clubhouse, and lodge as “cool.”

Visitors to this bucket-list modern classic will agree. The brawny, big-shouldered layout, played at around 6,800 yards for the Women’s Open, sprawls over a former dairy cattle pasture whose natural landforms were so well-suited for golf that land had to be moved on only three holes (#1, #2, #17). A few blind shots in the original design were removed at the USGA’s request, but even the drainage was nearly perfect from the start. The green complexes are some of the most artistically inspired that you will find anywhere.

3rd Hole at Erin Hills, nearing sunset

The waving purple fescue is omnipresent and ranges from wispy to wiry – you’ll probably find your ball, but trying anything other than wedging it back out into the fairway is risky. (The women got off a little easier with the rough in late spring compared to mid-summer – it could be a lot longer.) The elevation changes, especially atop the 4th tee box, make for some inspirational moments. Erin Hills is playable for everyone (from the right tees), but it can be a bully if the winds are blowing hard.

Despite original intentions, the green fees are steep – and caddies are recommended, adding to the cost. Nevertheless, this is a must-play for serious golfers. The rustic beauty of the lodge and clubhouse will make you want to stay long after your round is over. So book a night in the lodge and replay for a nice discount the next day!

Highlights of the 80th U.S. Women’s Open

In the end, 25-year-old Maja Stark from Sweden carded a final-round, even-par 72 and a 2-stroke victory over Nelly Korda and Rio Takeda. All players in post-round interviews noted how difficult Erin Hills played. Nelly Korda stressed that the greens – both speed (around 13 on the Stimp meter) and pin positions were key factors in her own inability to hole more putts.

Champion Maja Stark the moment she realized she had just won $2.4 million.

As mentioned, Maja Stark collected a cool $2.4 million for the win. When asked in post-round interviews what she was going to do with the money, she said, sheepishly, “Oh, I didn’t even know that was the prize. Um…I might move out of my studio apartment. That would be nice.” Indeed. (Talk about an endearing response!)

The difficulty of Erin Hills in 2025 stood in stark contrast (no pun intended) to the 2017 Men’s U.S. Open, when the course was criticized for being too easy, with Brooks Koepke winning his first major with a score of -16. The USGA that year set pins on the final day in easy spots because the wind was predicted to reach 40 mph. By the end of the day, though, the wind had died down, and players were running birdies in all over. In 2025, the USGA learned its lesson – the weather was absolutely perfect, and Erin Hills played tough as nails. There was just one round in the 60s on Saturday and only three on Sunday.  

Nelly Korda (T2) wryly explaining that she simply couldn’t make the critical putts.
Rio Takeda (T2) confirming that she did her best.

Back in 2004, I noted that there were 19 S. Koreans in the field, a number directly attributable to Korean legend Se Ri Pak, who won the 1998 U.S. Women’s Open farther north in Kohler, Wisconsin at Blackwolf Run. In 2025, there were 27 players from S. Korea, and even 21 from Japan. Add large contingents from China, Thailand, various other southeast Asian countries, all throughout Europe and the UK, and the field resembled a United Nations meeting, which is inspiring to younger golfers – girls and boys – all over the planet. Just as inspiring is the fact that in the last 11 women’s majors, there have been 11 different winners. This means the talent pool is wide and deep, and that there’s room for more. Stark joins Annika Sorenstam and Liselotte Neumann, the two other Swedes to have won the U.S. Women’s Open. If Stark inspires Swedish girls to take up golf as much as the previous two winners, we’ll be seeing many more competing on the LPGA soon.

As for those amateur and rookie entrants, who’s going to influence professional golf in the coming decades?  As of mid-morning on Friday, there were two amateurs on the front page of the leaderboard, and a total of six amateurs made the cut this year, which is not an atypically large number. And rookies? First-year LPGA Tour pro Julia Lopez Ramirez fired the only round in the 60s on Moving Day (68) to hold second place alone – playing in the final Sunday pairing in your first U.S. Open is pretty impressive. Could some combination of these players become the next Creamer, Wie, and Lincicome? Time will tell. I’m already looking forward to the 100th U.S. Women’s Open – hope I’m around for it!

Father’s Day 2025: Gifting up to par

If you’re a golfer, but others in your family are not golfers, you have doubtlessly received numerous golf gifts that were well-intentioned and given with great love but which were – let’s be honest – completely and utterly useless. I just ran across one of these of my own in the back of a drawer. It’s a heavy glass golf ball atop a metallic gold tee. It came in a fancy, pillowed silk box. Lovely. But I never had the slightest clue what I was supposed to do with it. Hence, in the drawer it went.

If you’re not a golfer – or even if you are – don’t waste your money on golf tchotchkes. Take my advice and go for one or more of the items below – they will be appreciated and, importantly, they will be used.

Golf Balls

Golf balls may seem like a mundane, unimaginative gift. But balls are always appreciate because they are always needed. We golfers lose a LOT of balls.

Srixon, fast becoming one of the most popular balls on the PGA and LPGA Tours, is offering a “Buy-Two-Get-One” deal from May 22 to June 15. This exclusive promotion applies to in-line Srixon golf balls sold in dozens, including the premium Z-STAR Series models trusted by Srixon’s Tour Staff and amateurs alike. When customers purchase any two dozen of the same model, they’ll receive a third dozen free – delivering exceptional value without compromising performance.

Bridgestone has released three new e12 ball models: the e12 HiLAUNCH, e12 STRAIGHT, and e12 SPEED ($35/doz.). Painstaking in-house research has shown that approximately 85% of golfers would benefit significantly from playing a ball that was optimized for their typical launch conditions. The e12 HiLAUNCH model, which is aimed to help golfers increase their launch angle and overall trajectory, features the lowest compression of the three new e12 models. This causes the ball to stay on the clubface longer and launch higher for added carry distance. The e12 STRAIGHT, which is designed for players that need reduced sidespin for less hooks and slices, features a soft, low compression core, sidespin reducing mantle, and Contact Force dimples. The e12 SPEED, aimed at players who launch the ball too high and need a hotter, more boring trajectory, features the firmest compression of the three models for a more penetrating launch.

Bushnell

When I was a wee lad, my grandpa took me to a Minnesota Vikings game – back when they played outside. I remember two things from that game: The Vikings blanket he brought with him that had a zipper pocket for a flask and his Bushnell binoculars that provided a crystal-clear view of the players despite cheap seats and steady snow. I’ve still got both of those things, and they both still work great. The Bushnell A1-Slope Laser Rangefinder ($300), which debuted just this February, is a worthy descendant of those binoculars. It is by far the smallest and lightest rangefinder I have ever used. Pinseeker and JOLT technology provides instant tactile feedback when the target is locked, the slope yardage is easy to see and read, and the BITE magnetic skin is great if you don’t want to take it in and out of the sturdy case. A final innovation that is rare in the market is the rechargeable battery (cord included). This might be the last rangefinder I ever use—if my grandpa’s binoculars are any indication, the A1-Slope will never wear out.

For golfers who like music on the course, there is one accessory that has become essential: The Bushnell Wingman. Bushnell’s newest version of the their revolutionary yardage-provider and speaker, the Bushnell Wingman, is the Wingman View ($150). The View incorporates visual yardages and music information on an integrated LCD screen, so if you want to play in silent mode, you can still get your yardages. And even if you don’t want music (or yardages) on the course, the Wingman serves as an excellent Bluetooth speaker anywhere (it’s not just for golf!).

TRUE Linkswear

If you’re never heard of TRUE, you’re missing out. I have four pairs of TRUE golf shoes, and I get more compliments on them than any shoes I’ve ever worn (golf or otherwise). The combination of styling, attention to detail, and comfort are tough to beat. Some of my TRUE shoes have metal aglets. Others have eye-catching sole designs that also provide outstanding traction. All of them have excellent padding and support and, importantly, a nice, wide toe-box. For 2025, TRUE has launched a number of new models, including the OG3 PRO (my personal new favorite pair of golf shoes!) and their first spiked models, the LUX2 Player ($219 MSRP) and the LUX2 Maven ($319). An unexpected luxury of TRUE shoes is that every pair comes in its own mesh and canvas carrying case, which is great for golf trips. My only advice in ordering TRUE shoes online is to order one size larger than you think, as they do run a little small.

Arcade belts

Speaking as a dad myself, I can attest to an odd fact of male aging: Even as our waistlines expand, our need for belts increases. I don’t know why. I don’t make the rules. All I know is that if you love your dad, you don’t want him to flash plumber’s butt every time he gets his ball out of the hole. So gift him one or more Arcade belts. These elastic, fabric belts with a unique buckling mechanism are super-comfortable and even machine-washable. Arcade has three styles specifically designed with golf in mind: Motion, Futureweave, and Momentum.

The Golf 100

Does Dad enjoy golf history? If so, New York Times bestselling author Michael Arkush establishes a ranking system that places a heavy emphasis on the game’s major championships and profiles the most accomplished and impactful golfers—men and women, known and unknown. Arkush captures the flair, as well as the flaws, of athletes who are intensely competitive, funny, peculiar, or larger-than-life. Crafted from hundreds of interviews and longtime relationships developed over a quarter century, The Golf 100 is a highly entertaining read for $30.

Golf Trip with Dad

I’ve been fortunate to take a lot of golf trips with loved ones, including my son. For me, there’s no gift better than a round of golf with him, or even an extended golf trip. The Midwest has almost too many outstanding golf resorts to count, much less list here. But a few, ranging in price, that Dad will absolutely love come to mind: French Lick Resort (IN), Eagle Ridge Resort (IL), Boyne Highlands Resort (MI), Forest Dunes (MI) , Gull Lake View Resort (MI), Cragun’s Resort (MN), Grand Geneva Resort (WI), and of course The American Club, home of Whistling Straits (WI).

Happy Father’s Day to all, and to all a good round!

Whistling Straits, The Straits Course

Sandals Emerald Bay Resort and Golf Course are out of this world

The water around Great Exuma Island in the Bahamas is one of the most recognizable landmarks to astronauts 249 miles overhead. The irradiant blue-green hues are unrivalled elsewhere on the plant, as tides rush in and out through shallow channels between Exuma’s 365 islands and cays. The ocean seems to glow, as if lit from below.

Sandals Emerald Bay Resort and its championship Greg Norman-designed golf course boast panoramic views of these waters – vistas that look like they’ve been filtered by some hyperbolic Instagram photographer. But there is no smart-phone trickery here. Only paradise wherever you look.

Sandals Emerald Bay Resort

The name Sandals is synonymous with Caribbean getaways. The first Sandals opened in 1981 in Montego Bay, Jamaica, and pioneered the concept of the all-inclusive couples resort. Sandals Emerald Bay opened in 2010 when the company took over and expanded the Four Seasons on Great Exuma. Sandals Emerald Bay is the larger of two Sandals in the Bahamas and is expansive by any measure. Sandals employs 650 on this island of 4,000 residents. Many of the staff come from other Bahamian islands other Caribbean locales (we met several from Jamaica). There are 11 restaurants on property, two large pools, and a nearly mile-long private white-sand beach.

Service at Sandals is outstanding. Guests have the option of upgrading to butler service, complete with a private cell phone to call their butler any time of day or night. Our primary butler, Kevin, seemed to anticipate our every need: surprise charcuterie boards were waiting for us in our room. Hot bubble baths were drawn to meet us when we returned from our strenuous days of sightseeing, golf, and laying about. Prime lounge chairs and cabanas were saved for us by the pool. Signature cocktails magically appeared in our hands precisely when we started thinking, “Hmmm…I might go get a drink.”

Food at all-inclusive resorts sometimes takes a back seat, given the “captive” audience. My wife and I tried nearly every restaurant at Sandals Emerald Bay and were struck by the consistent quality, ranging from very good to excellent. The Jerk Shack chicken and yams were my favorite casual fare (perfect by the pool with a cold beer). For dinners, Soy sushi, Bombay Club Indian, La Parisienne French, and il Cielo Italian were frankly neck and neck in terms of our favorite meals—all excellent, all very different. Dinner at il Cielo was especially opulent, as we attended a small private dinner with Adam Stewart, Deputy Chairman of Sandals Resorts, whose father, Gordon “Butch” Stewart, is Founder and Chairman of Sandals Resorts. Also in attendance was Greg Norman, World Golf Hall of Famer and designer of the Sandals Emerald Bay Golf Course.

Sandals amenities are legendary. From the boisterous main pool with swim-up bar to the Quiet Pool, from the bountiful hammocks strung between palms around the property to the nearly mile-long beach complete with complementary watersport equipment, there is plenty to do. Treatments at the sumptuous Red Lane Spa are extra but highly recommended.  If you feel like exploring off-site, Island Routes has a desk opposite reception, where you can book island tours, bone fishing trips, or excursions to swim with the famous pigs of the Bahamas (as seen on “The Bachelor” and soon to be a feature-length film), feed grapes to endangered Bahamian rock iguanas, and snorkel in the crystalline waters of Great Exuma.

Views from the rooms at Sandals Emerald Bay will not disappoint.

Sandals Emerald Bay Golf Course

The Sandals Emerald Bay Golf Course is a stunning 7,001-yard championship Greg Norman design that has hosted the Korn Ferry Tour’s Bahamas Great Exuma Classic since 2015. The six-hole stretch from hole 11 to hole 16 are some of the prettiest oceanside holes I’ve ever seen. There are no dramatic forced carries over frothing coves, but with the electric sea as a constant companion, the vistas are nothing short of heavenly.

During an exclusive one-on-one interview with The Shark himself, Norman shared the history of the course, and how those stunning views were nearly hidden from golfers.

Some quality time with course architect and golf legend, Greg Norman (before LIV was announced).

“I became involved with the course in 2002/03. The original developer was from South Africa. Originally, it was a real-estate constrained designed. That’s why some holes are short. All those holes on the back along the ocean were supposed to run between houses, which would line the shore on both sides. Boring! Then they realized how expensive it would be to run utilities down two sides of the property. I convinced them to save money by running it just down one side and allowing for seaside holes. Then Four Seasons took over, and the course sat fallow for a while. When Sandals took over, Butch [Stewart, Sandals’ Founder] listened and carefully protected and managed this course back to life.”

Thanks to Stewart’s stewardship and Norman’s aesthetic, the course today not only hosts the Korn Ferry Tour Bahamas Great Exuma Classic, but also offers Sandals guests one of the best golf deals in the Caribbean. Non-guest green fees are $155, with cart fees $25-$35. Sandals guests pay no green fees, so a golf-addled vacationer could play 36 holes (or more!) of tournament-quality seaside golf—every day—for practically pennies. (Rental clubs and shoes are also available for the more casual player for $65 and $15, respectively.)

While the ocean features on six holes of Sandals Emerald Bay Golf Course, the trade winds feature on all eighteen, though the inland holes are somewhat sheltered. This is especially true at certain times of the year, including the week of the Korn Ferry Tour tournament. According to Brooks Downing of BD Global Sports, who runs two Korn Ferry Tour events in the Bahamas (Exuma and Abaco), the week of the tournament has been extraordinarily windy all four years so far.

Sandals Emerald Bay, Hole 11

“The first year,” says Downing, “the tail of a nor’easter hit us. That tournament had the highest scoring average in the 30-year history of the Tour. The par-4 12th had a stroke average of 5.8. Guys couldn’t bring themselves to aim 30 yards out over the ocean and let the wind bring it back. So their tee shots kept landing OB right.”

Because of the tempestuous winds, the course plays differently every day. Even the gorgeous par-3 11th, which stretches to only 148 yards even for the pros, can be a demon if the wind is in your face. My pro-am partner, Paul Barjon, who was 2019 leading money winner on the Canadian PGA Tour, hit a 6-iron into the 11th in the pro-am. I tried a 9-iron from 100 yards…and failed to make the green.

Sandals Emerald Bay, Hole 12 green (best shot I hit all day)

For all the postcard beauty of the seaside holes, the real test of an oceanside golf course is the inland holes. At Sandals, Norman has hewn memorable holes from scrub brush and wetlands, and incorporated several water hazards that aren’t the Atlantic Ocean. One of the real beauties is the 165-yard 6th, a downhill par-3 to a peninsula green that is wide but shallow.

Sandals Emerald Bay, Hole 13
Sandals Emerald Bay, Hole 16

For visitors, the secret to enjoying your round (or rounds) here will be choosing the right tees not just for your skill set, but also for the conditions. If the wind is whipping, play up. In addition, always prioritize hitting it in the fairway over hitting it a long way. On nearly every hole, you will find water, rocks, brush, or waste areas 10 yards off of nearly every fairway and green. What you likely won’t find is your ball if you hit it in these places. So make sure to bring or buy plenty before your round, or you’ll be re-stocking at the turn.

No matter how you play, take plenty of time to soak in the sun and sea, along with plenty of photos of what might just be the most beautiful corner of the Caribbean. There may be astronauts overhead wishing they were playing golf in the midst of that otherworldly blue.

Golf in the Midnight Sun at Iceland’s Brautarholt Golf Course

It was 9:30 p.m., June 21—Summer Solstice, 2019—when Gunnar Pálsson picked me up at Hotel Frón in Reykjavik. Soon joining us in the Brautarholt Golf Course shuttle were four test pilots from Phoenix and a couple from outside Toronto. We were all heading to the course to play a round of golf under Iceland’s never-setting Midnight Sun.

“This is a bucket list experience,” said the woman from Ontario. “I’ve been planning this since October last year.”

“We decided to do it last night,” said one of the test pilots, clearly more comfortable flying by the seat of their pants, as it were.

If you’ve never thought about golf in Iceland, you wouldn’t be alone. You also wouldn’t be from Iceland. In fact, there are some 65 golf courses in Iceland, according to Gunnar, including the Golf Club of Reykjavik, which has over 3,000 members, making it one of the largest golf clubs in Europe.

“But what sort of season do you have here?” I ask Gunnar, exposing the depths of my ignorance about golf in Iceland.

“At Brautarholt, because we are on the coast, we usually open on the first of May and close at the end of October,” he says to my obvious surprise. That season’s not so different from some of the fabulous courses in northern sates like Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan.

When the shuttle pulls into the gravel Brautarholt car park, we see what Gunnar means by “on the coast”: the North Atlantic is literally a driver and a mid-iron from the first tee (driver, 7-iron to be exact – trust me, I know, though I wasn’t trying).

Brautarholt Clubhouse, 2 a.m., Summer Solstice (#nofilter)

Brautarholt Golf Course opened its first 9 holes in 2012, with three more opening last year. “We have 12 holes so far,” explained Gunnar in the shuttle, “with plans for 18 and land for 36.”

Out on the course, Gunnar provided a bit more history: “Before the financial crash in 2008, my brother-in-law was bought out of two businesses. Then the crash came and prices fell. He said, ‘When are we ever going to be able to build a golf course this cheaply again?’ So we began building the course.”

The former hay fields, most of which had been in the family for 100 years, occupy stunning headland – with the look, feel, sound, and soil of true linksland – along the shore about a 30-minute drive west of Reykjavik. The clubhouse is modest but modern and sleek, with large windows looking out toward the sea and onto the rocky outcroppings that define many of the holes. The air inside the cozy space is redolent with the aroma of homemade soup, simmering in a pot for golfers making the turn or ending their round. A delicious bowl of soup with some crusty bread seated in the clubhouse seems far more civilized than scarfing down a hotdog in the golf cart as you race to the 10th tee. But I digress.

10:00 p.m. seems like a reasonable time to tee off when the sun is still high in the southwestern sky – in fact, from the elevated westward-facing first tee, the solstice sun is fairly blinding. Although not yet complete, Brautarholt has already been nominated to the Top-100 in the World list by Golfscape website, and 40th among Scandinavian courses by Golf Digest. All comments I’ve read about it online say, “Bring a lot of balls!” and I have brought a new dozen with me; there will be only two survivors.

Brautarholt Golf Club, First Tee, just after 10 p.m., Summer Solstice

From the back tees, the 2012 Edvinn Roald and Michael Kelly design plays 2,674 yards for 9 holes, 5,348 for 18, and 3,424 for 12, to a par 70. The total yardage, at present, doesn’t seem overwhelming, but between the ocean winds and heavy maritime air, cool temperatures, copious expanses of knee-high fescue, and wildly shaped greens that often drop off into the sea, there is plenty of challenge here. This is all especially true for all first-time international visitors; it’d take a good half-dozen rounds to figure out the optimal angles and landing areas, not to mention the club selections.

That final task, club selection, is especially tricky if you’re using one of the many sets of rental clubs at Brautarholt, all of which were top quality (Callaway, PING, TaylorMade, etc.). Still, you’re never quite sure how far strange clubs will go, and distances are tough to judge against backdrops of water and mountains.

The 437-yard par-5 1st hole is a perfect example. The hole plays from an elevated tee down to a fairway the angles to the left, with the ocean on the right and a marshy pond on the left and cross-bunkers just beyond the pond. Now, the ocean on the right is out of play, but it’s hard to judge this, and my tee shot ended up too far left, catching the pond. The second shot is to a blind green up above the fairway, with a rock outcropping on the left and a cliff on the right. After playing it once, you realize to favor the left – a lot – because everything funnels left to right once you get up to the green, and if you aim left but push it, you might miss the ocean.

Brauterholt, Hole 1, 2 a.m.

From the first green it’s quite a hike further up the cliff to the tee of the 125-yard 2nd. But players are rewarded generously upon arrival. From the elevated tee on a clear day (or clear middle of the night, during summer solstice), you can see off in the distance the dormant volcano Snæfellsjökull, which appeared in the Jules Verne novel “Journey to the Center of the Earth” as the passage into the center of the earth.

After you’ve been sufficiently impressed by the view, you tee off with a wedge to a green in whose middle lies a rather imposing hump. “There was a huge boulder there. Michael Kelly decided to leave it. He’s a proponent of laying the golf course on the land and using the natural hazards.” If your tee shot finds the opposite side of the pin location, traversing the turfed-over boulder makes a three-putt a distinct possibility. If the pin is in the back, and you go long, you might find your ball in shin-high fescue. (It’ll be there, but you might not find it.)

Brautarholt, Hole 2

The 223-yard, par-3 5th is a left-to-right cape hole that dares you to challenge a small bay and rocky beach with your tee shot—a challenge almost worthy of its own Icelandic saga. The prevailing wind balloons shots, and the green is partially encircled by rocky shoreline. I happened to land on the beach, from which I knocked a recovery sand wedge to 12 feet and sunk the putt for one of my favorite all-time scrambling pars.

Brautarholt, Hole 5

The 359-yard 7th is brutal. It plays back up away form the ocean to a snaking sliver of fairway that angles awkwardly away from the tees. On either side lurks water and knee-high grass. To top everything off, there’s a ditch bifurcating the fairway pretty much exactly where you hope to land your drive. Things don’t get any easier on the green, which is sloped severely uphill, and if you don’t get your ball back to the top level, it’ll come back to your feet.

“Michael Kelly believes every green should be special,” says Gunnar with classic Icelandic stoicism as we both wait to see of our balls are actually going to stay up on the green.

The 491-yard par-5 9th plays from an elevated tee down to a fairway that is only partially visible from the longer tees. Favor the right side here, as the fairway cants to the left toward high grass and a stream. There is a pot bunker in the middle of the fairway, though, where even well-positioned drives can find themselves. Approaches to the green must carry a deep swale fronting the putting surface.

Brautarholt, Hole 9 tee

Behind the tee of the 262-yard par-4 11th, you can see in the distance the location of the first Christian church in Iceland (there’s still a church on the spot, but the original, and several replacements, have long since burned down). Then off to the right a way, if you know where to look, you can see an old house on the former site of a temple to Thor. There were, according to Gunnar, epic battles between the keepers of these two houses of worship around, which served as the basis for one of the Icelandic sagas.

Brautarholt, Hole 10

“This is elf land, according to folk history,” says Gunnar, as I realize how many balls I’ve lost in just 12 holes. “Perhaps elves took some of them?” Gunnar wants to put up a sign that tells golfers to behave or the elves will get them. It used to work on Icelandic children to keep them away from dangerous places. And who knows, supposedly you can meet elves at midnight on the summer and winter solstices.

I saw no elves, but experienced perhaps the pinnacle of unique golf experiences at Brautarholt Golf Course this solstice. We concluded our round (and I played a couple more holes because I didn’t want to leave) close to 2:00 a.m., and even though the sun was low behind a distant mountain, there was plenty of light. The word “magical” came to mind again and again. Indeed, if the entire cast of “Game of Thrones” showed up in full costume to play Brautarholt, they would fit right in.

Brautarholt, 9th green — wouldn’t be surprised to see a dragon fly over the top of that mountain…

Midnight golf packages at Brautarholt run about $200 total, including rental clubs and transportation to and from any hotel in Reykjavik. Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in Iceland during summer solstice, any trip to Iceland between May and November should include a round of golf here. The views of the sea, of Reykjavik itself across the bay, and the surrounding mountains are imminently memorable. 12-hole fees are around $70, 18-holes run about $85. Both pull carts and golf cars, along with rental clubs, are available.

“I can check ‘midnight golf in Iceland’ off my bucket list,” says the woman from Ontario as we load into the van to head back into town. “This was perfect.”

Magically perfect? Perfectly magical? Either one worked just fine.

Be sure to see some of the rest of magical Iceland. Cod-fishing in the harbor is fantastic fun (look up Happy Tours) –and the cod they cook up on the boat is amazing!

Bay Harbor Golf Club: Top of the mitten, top of the MI must-play list

The 1990s were heady times for golf in Michigan. I lived in The Great Lakes State from 1996-2002 and recall a year or two when one new course was opening every week during the summer months. This was still before the terms “destination golf” or “bucket-list course” had been coined, but the volume and quality of golf in the state was probably the best-kept secret in the sport.

In the early 1990s, the Boyne Resorts – Boyne Highlands, Boyne Mountain, and The Inn at Bay Harbor – were also booming, and building courses at all their properties. The crown jewel of this collection, Bay Harbor Golf Club, opened in 1996 with the goal of becoming the Pebble Beach of the Midwest. Golf Course architect Arthur Hills crafted 27 holes through the woods and along the shores of Lake Michigan, creating arguably the first true “golf destination” in the Midwest.

Vista from the 3rd tee box at Bay Harbor, Links Course

The “top of the mitten” – i.e., the northern tip of Michigan’s lower peninsula – is stunningly beautiful: breathtaking views of Lake Michigan, deep harbors and tranquil bays, soaring forests, a patchwork of inland lakes and rivers. Although summers, and golf seasons, are relatively short, the summer days are temperate and long, allowing golfers to play 14 hours a day during the height of the summer.

What better setting, then, for Arthur Hills to carve 27 unique holes into the bluffs overlooking the lake, centerpiece to the tawny enclave of Bay Harbor? This is the layout that would cement his reputation for scenic yet difficult courses, replete with forced carries and heroic shot opportunities. The location is so picturesque, in fact, that an episode of “Shell’s Wide World of Golf” was filmed here shortly after the course opened.

Bay Harbor Golf Club consists of three 9-hole courses: The Preserve, The Links, and The Quarry. All three are immaculately groomed and exquisitely challenging, but The Links and The Quarry comprise the “premier” 18-hole experience. All three 9s have seven(!) tee boxes, allowing players to calibrate the yardage to their skill level. From the back tees, the Links/Quarry combination stretches to over 6,800 yards. From the most forward tees, players are looking at just over 4,100 yards.

No matter the tees you choose, you’ll be treated to spectacular vistas and holes routed brilliantly through woods and grasslands, and across ravines and a massive old shale quarry, all skirting the shore of Lake Michigan.

Assistant Golf Professional Scott Puschi offers a few valuable tidbits of advice for first-time visitors. “First, download the free GPS app onto your phone,” he says. “It’s a 3D yardage book with tons of helpful tips and flyovers of every hole.”

“Second,” he continues, “Play the Links and Quarry combination, unless you don’t enjoy forced carries. The Quarry has a forced carry on every hole, and we don’t want people to have a bad day.”

The Links

Bay Harbor, Links Course, Hole 1

My 15-year-old son and I played the Links/Quarry combination in “Chamber of Commerce” weather. We chose to play at about 6,300 yards, as our games were undergoing various changes after some recent lessons. As we approached the tee box on the ~400yd 1st hole of The Links, my son started to realize why I was so excited to finally play Bay Harbor – and to understand why I am such a huge fan of Michigan golf. The panoramic view from the saddleback fairway down to the first green was just a taste of what was to come.

By the time we got to the 3rd hole, possibly the hardest short(ish) par-4 you’ve ever seen, he just kept saying, “Wow.” That’s about as much outward awe you can coax out of a teenager. Nearly every green on The Links seems to be framed or back-dropped by the lake. The short (depending on the tees you play, 178-80 yards) par-3 4th is one of the best one-shotters I’ve seen in a long time, with certain death left and long, and a bailout area to the right that leaves a nearly unstoppable downhill chip toward the lake.

Bay Harbor, Links Course, Hole 3
Bay Harbor, Links Course, Hole 4

There’s only one forced carry on The Links at the par-4 6th hole, which is to a split fairway (take the right side—it’s much shorter!). The Bay Harbor app comes in very handy over the last few holes of The Links, especially for the blind landing area on the short par-5 7th hole and the serpentine par-5 9th, which snakes through wetlands from tee to green (stay left!).

 The Quarry

As it turns out, The Links, for all its challenges—and there are many—serves as but a warm-up for The Quarry, which requires precision and power on basically very shot. Looking through my notes, I find multiple uses of the words “insane” and “crazy,” but in good ways. For example, the brawny par-5 3rd hole first requires a long carry off the tee to a fairway bordered by a marsh to the right and an enormous waste area to the left. Your second shot will likely be a lay-up to a blind landing area, followed by an approach over a sizeable portion of the old quarry.

Bay Harbor, Quarry Course, Hole 3

At this point, my son decided he was fonder of The Links. “This side is WAY harder,” he noted rather glumly as we counted up his strokes on the 3rd and penciled in a “10.”

The shorter but no less crazy par-5 5th hole was equally daunting, with a forced carry from the tee of about 220 yards over water, even from the middle tees, followed by another blind lay-up (aim toward the tall birdhouse). Heed the app and choose your club wisely, as the fairway ends at the water’s edge, water which surrounds the quarry-framed green.

Bay Harbor, Quarry Course, Hole 4
Bay Harbor, Quarry Course, Hole 5

More challenging carries follow on the brutish par-4 7th (stay right off the tee for a shorter carry), and the gorgeous yet beastly par-3 8th, whose wide, shallow green felt nearly impossible to hit (utilize the drop areas rather than pumping ball after ball into the abyss).

The app is also handy on the par-4 9th, where the drive is blind over a humpbacked fairway that ends around 280 yards from the tee. My son’s drive went too long and was lost (greatly disappointing after such a good poke!), whereas mine stayed inches from trouble. From there, I had 110 yards downhill, over a ravine to an idyllic green nestled between the clubhouse and the crystal blue lake. One of the best shots of my life nearly found the cup, leaving me with a 4-inch tap-in for birdie and applause from the clubhouse veranda.

Bay Harbor, Quarry Course, Hole 9

Even my usually nonplussed teenager was duly impressed.

Lasting impressions of Bay Harbor Golf Club

Before Whistling Straits, before Arcadia Bluffs, before Sand Valley, before The Pete Dye Course at French Lick Resort, there was Bay Harbor Golf Club, the original “bucket-list” course of the Midwest. Bay Harbor, and the rest of the Boyne Golf courses, were among the originals in what was to become a peerless collection of Northern Michigan golf destinations, which are still arguably the best-kept secret in golf.

Bay Harbor’s rack rate greens fee of nearly $400 is not necessarily budget-friendly; however, advanced tee times online can be found for as little as $140, and guests at the stately Inn at Bay Harbor (as well as other Boyne properties) enjoy a wide range of stay-and-play package rates. Although the golf season in Northern Michigan only runs from May 1 to the 2nd week in October, the weather and daylight throughout much of it are almost magical.

Like my son, you will find yourself saying “Wow!” over and over again, as you check Bay Harbor Golf Club off your bucket list.

Bay Harbor, Quarry Course, Hole 6

Boyne Highlands Resort: A four-course feast of golf

Summer is admittedly short, but if, say, you own a ski resort, and your hotel and sprawling grounds feel abandoned during the long, sun-drenched yet temperate days from May through October in the northern reaches of the state’s southern peninsula, you might well consider expanding your warm-weather offerings. After all, ski season is also only about six months long. Why not cater to both seasons?

That was the thinking at Boyne Highlands Resort in Harbor Springs, Michigan. The first golf course was built here in 1966. Designed by legendary golf course architect Robert Trent Jones, The Heather (4,485-7,143 yards) opened in 1966, presaging the “golf boom” by some three decades and establishing Boyne as a central player in Michigan golf. The Heather Course has played host over the decades to nearly every major Michigan amateur championship and remains the top draw at the Highlands Resort.

Main Lodge at Boyne Highlands Resort
Hole 5, Heather Course

Next came The Moor Course (5,099-6,850 yards), by Bill Newcombe and John Robinson, in 1974, which many locals and regulars will tell you is their favorite (perhaps partially because it tends to be less expensive and less crowded than the other three courses on the resort grounds).

In 1989, the Donald Ross Memorial Course (4,935-6,814 yards) ushered in the “golf boom” years. Also designed largely by Michigan course architect Bill Newcombe, the Ross is an 18-hole homage to legendary Donald Ross. Each hole is modeled after Ross’s most famous holes around the world. The greens, especially, are every bit as diabolical as any authentic Ross design you may encounter.

Ross Memorial Course, Hole 4

The final course added to the Boyne Highlands property was the eponymous Arthur Hills Course (4,811-7,312 yards, par 73), which, along with the spectacular Bay Harbor Golf Club a few miles away, cemented Hills’s reputation as a master of dramatic, and dramatically difficult, golf course design. The Hills Course opened in 1995 (with a redesign in 1999) and has the highest slope rating (144) and course rating (75.4) on the property. It also has the most memorable and visually striking holes at the resort.

Arthur Hills Course, Hole 13

Players’ notes

The Heather Course

Robert Trent Jones, Sr. innovated a number of golf course design features: long, narrow teeing grounds allowing for extremely variable hole lengths; deep, narrow greens; drifting, meandering doglegged fairways that encourage shots to find preferred angles and require players to move the ball in all directions. All of these RTJ hallmarks are in full display at The Heather Course. Most of all, the layout epitomizes the legendary course architect’s mantra of “Easy bogey, difficult par.”

The main advice from John Myers, Head PGA Professional at Boyne Highlands, for first-time visitors to The Heather is that “par 3s play longer than the yardage on the scorecard.” Also, says Myers, “If the green read is not obvious, the ball will break away from the mountain.”

As my son and I worked our way around The Heather, we found quickly that yes, indeed, the par 3s all play longer than they say on the card. We played the conservative orange tees (6,207 yards), but even so, the 162-yard 4th hole, which plays completely over water, felt 20 yards longer. I can only imagine how daunting it would be from the 202-yard back tees.

Hole 4, Heather Course

Our favorite holes were the closing holes on each side. The par-5 9th stretches to a brawny 617 yards from the tips. The fairway snakes left-to-right and then back right-to-left, terminating at a heavily bunkered green whose surface is occluded from view down on the fairway.

Heather Course, Hole 18

The 482-yard, par-4 18th plays downhill to a large pond that starts 275-230 yards off the tees (depending on the tee box). Although there’s a narrow crescent of fairway off to the left of the water, chances are, your second shot will be a 170-200 yard carry over the water to a kidney-shaped green with two gaping bunkers looming behind it. One of my best shots all season was a 4i-hybrid over said pond to about 10 feet from the front-left pin. (I two-putted for par.)

The Donald Ross Memorial Course

Donald Ross is an almost mythical character in the history of golf course design, a fact that was totally lost on my 15-year-old son. As we drove to the first tee, I tried to explain how Ross’s green complexes were his hallmark: generously bunkered, devilishly contoured, turtle-backed and multi-tiered.

My son said something like, “That sounds awful.” And, well, I suppose that’s sort of true. But it also makes it fun to play any Ross course, or this exquisitely executed Ross tribute course.

The greens on the Ross Memorial Course mimic the iconic course architect’s iconic greens.

But let me disabuse you of any thought of shooting a career best your first time out. Those greens, which so spooked my son, are brutal and unforgiving. I think I 3-putted nine greens here, one of which was from just six feet away…then from 9 feet…then from 3 feet. Sigh.

The holes that Bill Newcombe and colleagues chose for homage include are #14 at Royal Dornoch, #6 and #15 at Seminole, #16 and #17 at Oakland Hills, #14 and #16 at Pinehurst 2 – and so many more classic holes.

One of our favorite holes was the bucolic 181-yard par-3 8th (#11 at the Charlotte Country Club), which plays over water, with a willow tree to the right and a saddleback green.

Ross Memorial Course, Hole 8


A second favorite was the gorgeous, brilliant split fairway of the 510-yard 13th (Seminole #15). Pines and bunkers litter the area between fairway branches. From the proper tees, this par 5 is reachable in two, and it has the flattest, kindest green on the entire course. But don’t get me wrong: it is still lightning-fast, but at least there is a chance of holing a birdie (or better) here.

Ross Memorial Course, Hole 13

After our round, my son, to whom I had been rhapsodizing about Ross throughout the round, said simply: “I don’t think I like this Ross guy.” So, again, be forewarned: The Ross Memorial is a memorable experience, but be kind to yourself and modest in your expectations for your score.

The Arthur Hills Course

Art Hills is one of the more polarizing golf course architects you might never have heard of. It has been reported that his philosophy is that golf is a hard game, and his courses are not intended to make it ay easier. On the other hand, his use of topography, contour, and strategic features conspire to make his designs eminently memorable and visually inspiring.

The Arthur Hills Course is both of these things. It was our favorite course at Boyne Highlands Resort and was, generally, not nearly as unforgiving as Hills’s reputation might lead one to expect. The entire course is situated on arguably the best tract of land on the sprawling resort. There are picturesque backdrops of trees and sloping valleys, and the greens are much easier to read and putt than on the Ross Course. In my son’s words, it is far less “Rossy.”

Hills Course, Hole 4

The layout eases players into their rounds, with four straight holes that, from the proper tees, do not pose many penalties. The 481-yard par-4 5th is a brute, to be sure, but the entire hole is gloriously framed by lodge-pole pines. It is one of the few times I’ve heard my son actually utter the word “Wow!” when looking at a green. (The other times were on Hills’s masterful Bay Harbor Golf Club the previous day.)

One of the most memorable holes is the par-4 10th. At just 354 yards from the tips, it might be drivable from the proper tees. When stepping on the tee, my son said, “This doesn’t feel real.” The entire hole is encircled by towering pines, and the elevated green is fronted by a cavernous bunker.

Hills Course, Hole 10

As much as you feel that the front 9 of The Hills Course is playable and scoreable, the back 9 slaps you in the face. Misses are penalized much more harshly, and the greens are considerably more severe. Nevertheless, the experience is fantastic, and the golf is fun, even if you shoot 11 strokes worse on the back than you did on the front (like I did).

Hills Course, Hole 15

If You Go

Boyne Highlands Resort offers year-round activities and amenities centered around skiing in the winter and golf in the summer. Peak season greens fees at all four courses range from $56 (twilight) to $191 (peak times/days), and there are copious stay-and-play packages.

There are numerous dining options in the Bavarian-inspired main lodge and hotel, but the Slopeside Cafe was my son’s and my favorite. Outside the back windows, there were dozens of kids and families cavorting on the expansive green lawn at the base of the ski slope. Free cornhole (bags) games, putting greens, Frisbee, basketball, tennis, etc., etc. are available. Don’t miss the free ski-lift rides up to the top of the “mountain,” or the new zip-line. There’s even a small fishing pond stocked with trout that my son and I spent a fun hour catching and releasing. Oh, and the food’s excellent, too, especially the pizzas and burgers.

Kingsmill Resort: Where American History and Golf History Converge

The final two holes on The River Course at Kingsmill Resort, outside of Williamsburg, Virgina, feature several historical markers. One of these describes how the first English settlers in North America landed near the escarpment above the wide James River that is now the elevated tee box of the par-3 17th hole. Those settlers moved upriver a bit further, to Jamestown, where ships could anchor closer to shore. There, those settlers faced starvation, disease, and conflicts with the Native Americans, and by 1610, 80%-90% of the settlers had died. Evidence suggests that some had to resort to cannibalism to survive.

Personally, I would have stayed on the 17th green overlooking the water, but that’s just me.

Another historical record greets you as you walk towards the front of the clubhouse – a large sign listing all the names of the winners of the multiple professional tour tournaments competed on the Kingsmill River Course over the decades: Anheuser-Busch Golf Classic, Michelob Championship at Kingsmill, Michelob Ultra Open at Kingsmill , Kingsmill Championship, and PureSilk Championship of Williamsburg. One of these tournaments ran close to annually from 1961 to 2021. When asked why the tours stopped coming to Kingsmill, one of the staff said, “They hit the ball too far these days. There’s no room to expand the course.”

Happily, 99% of recreational golfers do not hit the ball as far as Tour players. And those that might occasionally come close don’t hit it nearly as straight. So for recreational golfers looking to play some historic courses on some historic property, the 1975 Pete Dye-designed River Course and the 1986 Arnold Palmer-designed Plantation Course provide plenty of challenge and fun.

Kingsmill Resort

Kingsmill Resort is a sprawling, mixed-use property located on the outskirts of historic Williamsburg, just outside the front gates of the Busch Gardens amusement park. There are part-time and full-time residents (and members), there are timeshare condos, there are resort units. There are also myriad indoor and outdoor recreational facilities, a marina, and restaurants and bars. The sunset views from the patio of the marina restaurant really should not be missed.

Because of the sheer size of the Kingsmill Resort, guests really benefit from having a car on property. Although some of the rooms and facilities could use a bit of updating, the overall vibe is one of old-money, Mid-Atlantic rustic comfort. The two golf courses add considerably to this vibe, and they clearly serve as the crown jewels of the resort.

The Golf Courses

In the well-staffed, well-stocked proshop, there was a vigorous debate amongst the staff when I asked which course, River or Plantation, is the hardest. A slight majority appeared to vote for the River Course – a 1975 Pete Dye layout that stretches to 6,831 yards from the back tees. This view was mostly due to its length and, perhaps, to a sort of recency bias related to the two courses’ respective 18th holes. The River Course ends with a bang: a 450-yard par-4 cape hole that requires an intimidating carry over a lake from all but the forward tees. The Plantation Course ends with a thud: a 333-yard, possibly drivable par 4 with no real trouble in any direction.

River Course, Hole 18: My driving line was between the first and second bunkers on the right

On the other hand, those voting for the Plantation as the more difficult 18 pointed to the narrower fairways, some requirement to play “target-golf” on certain holes, multiple blind hazards (and no GPS on the carts), a few long carries off the tee, and greens that often cantilevered – sloped downward from the middle of the putting surface toward both front and back. To be honest, I do think these devilish greens made the overall experience on the Plantation for first-time players more vexing. Both courses had their own charms and demons, however.

The River Course

In 1975, Pete Dye was coming into his own as a golf course architect. He was entering the stage of his career – and an age of golf – when course difficulty was considered a paramount virtue (from the tips, Course Rating: 73.2; Course Slope: 136). The rolling topography along the James River lent itself perfectly into Dye’s penchant for visual deception: when players can’t see the ground between themselves and their targets because of swales or valleys, yardages are much harder to estimate. And in the 1970s, laser rangefinders weren’t a thing yet. Today, even with modern yardage-measuring devices, recreational golfers have trouble overcoming doubts – many carries over hazards and up to predominantly elevated greens look much longer (and occasionally even shorter) than the laser says. (Buy a Player’s Book in the proshop – very useful!)

The rollercoaster topography – featured on both courses – lends itself to plenty of blind or semi-blind shots, especially off the tee. Then, on approaches to the River Course greens, you notice that nearly every one has a certain table-top quality, with sharp and penal drop-offs to one, two, or all sides. Players who miss greens here will have their short games tested. Then, once on the putting surfaces, the grainy Bermuda turf will make both speed and line difficult to judge. I think I three-putted more on the front 9 of my first round on the River Course than I had in a half-dozen previous rounds.

There are several memorable holes on the River Course, led by the aforementioned 18th – really a stunning closer that makes you pick a line and hit it to stay dry. Even a bomb can get you in trouble, though, as the fairway is not overly wide, and the right rough is no picnic to play from.

On the front side, the par-3 5th, which can play 70+ yards longer or shorter, depending on tees and pin position, is a real beauty. Here club choice is key if you’re going to hit the deep, narrow green and avoid the bunker and wetlands right and steep bank on the left.

River Course, Hole 5: Narrow target, lots of trouble, hard to judge!

The pretty 525-yard, par-5 7th is another gem. Here, like on the rest of the layout, the second shot is key. Driving the ball is not really the issue for the most part on the River Course, as long as you keep it relatively straight. But the second shots and/or approaches? Whoa. Here, the green is offset to the left of the end of the fairway. There is a dramatic drop-off to the left of the green into brush and wetlands.

River Course, Hole 7: That left pin is a sucker pin for an old hooker like me.

The closing three holes are really the stars of the River Course, though, as they play down to and along the James River. The fairway of the 458-yard 16th has OB both left and right, if you get a little wild. Then the hole turns right and snakes down toward a smallish peninsular green backdropped by the river. If the wind is coming off the water, as it usually is, club choice and angles are everything. The 177-yard, par-3 17th has an elevated tee box and equally elevated green, separated by a 30-foot valley. I don’t know if it was the wind or the weight of history (there are numerous historical markers near the tee box and green), but just about every tee shot I saw (and hit myself) came up a bit short. The unlucky ones rolled down to the bottom of the valley.

River Course, Hole 17: The elevated green on this par 3 is large and inviting — you just have to hit enough club to get here.

The Plantation Course

At just 6,437 from the back tees (Rating: 71.4, Slope: 132), the Arnold Palmer design with the historically problematical name should play easier on paper…but as noted above, might not on grass. Of special note is the back 9, which kicks off with a string of three 400+ yard par 4s. Numerous holes – notably 1, 10, 12, and 13 – have blind water hazards off the tees. Finally, as previously mentioned, the cantilevered greens require precise distance control or else balls will roll off the backs of the greens (or come back off the fronts) into areas that are very hard to get up and down from. As some of the proshop staff warned, the Plantation Course is more about position and avoiding hazards than power.

Perhaps because the junior layout was sort of shoe-horned into land surrounding its big sister, there are fewer visually arresting holes, though many of the same characteristics are shared between the two courses: elevated tees and/or greens, lots of swales and valleys, stands of hardwood trees, deep bunkers, and plenty of water. From the start, players are faced with what might be intimidating carries off the tee on the 365-yard 1st and 519-yard 2nd holes. Then, on the 177-yard, par-3 17th – arguably the most memorable hole – there’s a long carry over a ravine that is called, I believe, Snake Valley because of, well, snakes. There should really be a drop zone on the other side (it was unclear that there was, so a sign on the tee would be useful) – at least to keep players away from the snakes.

Plantation Course, Hole 17: If you hit your tee shot into that valley, just drop one on the other side.

The only sour experience on the Plantation Course was the customer service (which, to be honest, was occasionally spotty throughout the resort). One of my group actually carded a hole-in-one on the 14th. When that foursome finished and wanted to wait for my foursome to come in, they called the bar and asked if someone could drive beers out to the 18th to celebrate (neither the 9th nor the 18th of the Plantation is located near the clubhouse). They were refused. Later, one staff member drove a non-golfing member of our group out with beers, but apparently just delivering beers alone was too much to ask at the former home of multiple Anheuser-Busch-sponsored tournaments.

Plantation Course, Hole 10: One of my best drives of the round almost got to this pond (which I didn’t know was there).

The Verdict on Kingsmill Resort

Another nice view of the memorable 16th Hole on the River Course

When I think of Mid-Atlantic golf, I basically think of Kingsmill Resort as the template: great golf, beautiful scenery, excellent food, homey accommodations. Could the Jamestown settlers of 1607 have even imagined how idyllic this land would become in 400 years? Our only real privation was that the drink cart stopped service at 1:30pm all three days we played (so, right at our tee times), and there was no other water anywhere on courses (drinking fountains were shut off). Although this lack of service on the very warm days we played actually was somewhat dangerous (a few of our members were pretty dehydrated the first day), we were thankfully not forced to resort to cannibalism to survive.

Altogether then, Kingsmill Resort remains one of the Mid-Atlantic’s premier golf vacation destinations. It is always a treat to play the same courses as the pros played, and the added benefit of treading the same soil as some of the founders of this great nation is definitely an added bonus.

2025 Season Opener Gift Guide

For golf fanatics, The Masters counts as a holiday. Like, a MAJOR holiday (pun intended). And for golfers who live in northernly climes, it also marks the start of the golf season. Or close to it anyway, depending on how far north you live.

Given this auspicious time of year, when hope for lowered handicaps, personal best rounds, and holes-in-one springs as eternal as bentgrass overseeded with rye, I think we deserve a Season Opener Gift Guide. If you can’t convince your family to buy you presents to kick off the season, you should buy them for yourself. Here are a few ideas for swag that will help your 2025 golf season get off the tee.

Bushnell Golf’s New A1-Slope Laser Rangefinder

When I was a wee lad, my grandpa took me to a Minnesota Vikings game – back when they played outside. I remember two things from that game: The Vikings blanket he brought with him that had a zipper pocket for a flask and his Bushnell binoculars that provided a crystal-clear view of the players despite cheap seats and steady snow. I’ve still got both of those things, and they both still work great. The Bushnell A1-Slope Laser Rangefinder ($300), which debuted just this February, is a worthy descendant of those binoculars. It is by far the smallest and lightest rangefinder I have ever used. Pinseeker and JOLT technology provides instant tactile feedback when the target is locked, the slope yardage is easy to see and read, and the BITE magnetic skin is great if you don’t want to take it in and out of the sturdy case. A final innovation that is rare in the market is the rechargeable battery (cord included). This might be the last rangefinder I ever use—if my grandpa’s binoculars are any indication, the A1-Slope will never wear out.

TRUE Golf Shoes

TRUE LUX2 Maven
TRUE OG3 Pro

If you’re never heard of TRUE, you’re missing out. I have four pairs of TRUE golf shoes, and I get more compliments on them than any shoes I’ve ever worn (golf or otherwise). The combination of styling, attention to detail, and comfort are tough to beat. Some of my TRUE shoes have metal aglets. Others have eye-catching sole designs that also provide outstanding traction. All of them have excellent padding and support. At the 2025 PGA Merchandise Show, TRUE launched a number of new models, including the OG PRO and LUX2 Player ($195 each) and the LUX2 Maven ($325). An unexpected luxury of TRUE shoes is that every pair comes in its own mesh and canvas carrying case, which is great for golf trips. My only advice in ordering TRUE shoes online is to order one size larger than you think, as they do run a little small.

Sun Mountain Ridgeline 3 Push Cart

Once you’ve got yourself some comfy TRUE golf shoes, you need to take them out for a good walk. The exercise potential for golf is enormous – if you walk. And what makes walking more fun is a good push cart. The Ridgeline 3 push cart by Sun Mountain ($350) opens and folds easily, with just one lever and one latch. It’s fully adjustable to every golf bag thanks to a bracket on the main vertical handle support. It rolls smooth as silk yet is extremely stable. I’ve used a lot of push carts, and this one might be the best all-around I’ve ever tried.

 SuperStroke Putter Grips

Perhaps the best feeling in golf is feeling comfortable – and confident – on the greens. An essential part of achieving this blessed nirvana-like state is your putter grip. Your putter should feel so natural in your hands that it’s like an extension of your body. SuperStroke Putter Grips ($30-$40) have in a very short time become ubiquitous on greens everywhere from local municipal courses to the PGA Tour, where it seems like the winner every week plays them. My current favorites are the Marvel Comics Series grips – Iron Man, Hulk, Spider-Man – great fun for superhero fans! Additional big news from SuperStroke is that it has acquired the legendary Lamkin Grips – the favorite grips of Arnold Palmer. SuperStroke has some innovative plans for new Lamkin grips for the clubs all through your bags this season. Be honest – your clubs probably need new grips to start the season. Treat yourself to Lamkins and SuperStrokes!

Witch Way Ball Markers

At the 2024 Valspar Championship, eventual winner Kevin Streelman had 10 one-putts in a row at one point in his final round. He attributed at least part of that efficiency to a prototype ball marker he had put in play, a Witch Way ball marker. The Witch Way ($10 each, $30 for 5-pack with carrying case) is a bit over-sized, with a bold alignment line. The innovation is a longer spike on the bottom, allowing you to rotate the marker and adjust your line without removing it from the ground.

Sub70 Sugar Skull wedges

Sycamore, Illinois is home to Sub70 Golf, one of the most well-respected boutique golf equipment companies in America. Unlike every major equipment company, and most of the other smaller ones, Sub70 doesn’t release new clubs every year just to create buzz. Sub70 only puts out new equipment when their painstaking research and testing confirms that the new sticks actually perform better than the old ones. Heck, they even offer free clubfitting in their homey HQ in Sycamore, where they tell me that sometimes they do fittings and determine that the player’s current clubs are best for them, even if they aren’t Sub70s.

So believe me (and them) when I recommend Sub70’s fan-favorite Sugar Skull wedges ($125). Ranging in loft from 46-64 degrees, these beauties feature a black finish and custom laser engraving – either the Sub70 Sugar Skull or something more personal. In short, they look great and play even better!

Bridgestone e12 golf balls

Bridgestone e12 protoypes

On February 14, 2025, Bridgestone released three new e12 ball models: the e12 HiLAUNCH, e12 STRAIGHT, and e12 SPEED ($35/doz.). Painstaking in-house research has shown that approximately 85% of golfers would benefit significantly from playing a ball that was optimized for their typical launch conditions. The e12 HiLAUNCH model, which is aimed to help golfers increase their launch angle and overall trajectory, features the lowest compression of the three new e12 models. This causes the ball to stay on the clubface longer and launch higher for added carry distance. The e12 STRAIGHT, which is designed for players that need reduced sidespin for less hooks and slices, features a soft, low compression core, sidespin reducing mantle, and Contact Force dimples. The e12 SPEED, aimed at players who launch the ball too high and need a hotter, more boring trajectory, features the firmest compression of the three models for a more penetrating launch.

Early Season Golf Getaways!

Solmar Golf Links in Cabo San Lucas

OK, you’ve got new shoes, wedges, balls, maybe a new driver (this one is HOT!), ball markers, range finder, etc., etc. Now you need to get out and use them ALL! How about a road trip to someplace sunny, warm, and magical – like Cabo?  Solmar Golf Links is located just fifteen miles north of Cabo San Lucas. The Greg Norman Signature Course was designed with a “least disturbance” approach and traverses three different ecosystems along the breathtaking Pacific Ocean. Guests at the resort can enjoy private beach cabanas, a cutting-edge fitness center, hiking and biking trails, and concierge services. Stay and play package includes one round of golf per adult (and discounts on multiple rounds), shuttle service, food and beverage while on-course, and access to the practice facility before the round.

If you’re looking for something a little closer to home, you have exactly ONE DAY after this gift guide goes live (so you just book by March 17!) to lock in a sweet deal at Kingsmill Resort in Williamsburg, VA.  Stay five nights in a riverfront Cottage and receive a $1,000 resort credit to use however you choose—whether it’s towards a waterfront dinner, a spa day, or an afternoon of golf on our championship courses. Kingsmill is familiar to many golf fans as the former long-time venue of one of both PGA and LPGA Tour events. In other words, this is some world-class golf—so lock in this deal while you still can!

There you have it, golf fans. The 2025 Season is upon us – and I for one cannot wait!

Cleveland HiBore XL Driver: All-in on AI

Golf equipment companies known for their drivers – like Callaway, TaylorMade, and Ping – have turned in recent years to AI applications to rethink and redesign their big sticks. Now Cleveland, a legendary equipment company traditionally known more for wedges and putters, has entered the AI arena. Released December 6, 2024, the Cleveland HiBore XL Driver promises longer, straighter drives and a design that stands out from the crowd.

“AI” is certainly a buzzword today, in golf and everywhere else. What does it mean to apply “artificial intelligence” to club design? Basically, it’s machine-learning – tasking a computer with looking for patterns in huge amounts of data, patterns that would take humans too long to find. What are the data? Well, you start with idealized parameters: and acceptable range of longest distance and narrowest shot dispersion. Then you build simulation models with variables associated with the clubhead, such as face thickness across the entire face, weighting (amount and position), lofts, crown and sole material density, etc. (within the bounds of USGA conforming specs). Add in variables associated with the swing, such as speed, directionality, angle of attack, etc., and maybe even variables associated with different golf ball designs. And then you run every combination of these models thousands of times each – hundreds and hundreds of thousands of runs, maybe millions. The AI bit, then, is asking the computer to analyze all these data points, learning the combinations that return the best results for the specified ideal output parameters.

The result of these sorts of AI-aided R&D processes can be designs that no human might have considered. In the case of the Cleveland HiBore XL Driver ($400), engineers began with a traditional pear-shaped driver head, and ended up with a triangular head that turns out to be as effective as it is untraditional.

According to Cleveland’s Senior Product Casey Shultz, “As our R&D research has developed hand-in-hand with advancements of our A.I. simulation capabilities, the realization came that removing the constraints of a ‘traditional’ looking driver shape would allow for new and exciting performance opportunities.…[W]e were able to unlock levels of forgiveness and distance that weren’t possible before. But there is one key difference with the new model compared to that of the past – it also sounds great!”

Playing the Cleveland HiBore XL Driver

The week before someone flipped a switch and the weather in central Illinois went from 60 to 20, I took my Cleveland HiBore XL (9-degrees, stiff Mitsubishi Tensei shaft–a REALLY nice stock shaft) out to the driving range with my son, Erik, who was on his high school golf team and still plays often in college. He hits the ball a long way. I also took my past season’s gamer, a 10-degree Titleist TSR, for comparison.

The first thing we both remarked about was the unconventional shape. If you’re a “purist,” the triangular head shape will either take some getting used to or will not be for you. To my eye, it just looks powerful – kind of mallet or hammer-like. We were both a little rusty, and contact was distributed around the face for several swings. What was most striking is even though Erik hit a bunch of lower drives off the heel, and I hit a fair number of shots toward the toe, both ended up respectably long and, surprisingly in or close to what would have been the fairway.

As Erik said, “I’m not swinging great, but those all would have been acceptable drives.” I had to agree.

A week later, after the aforementioned arctic blast, I took the HiBore XL into the simulator at my local course to double-check that the numbers and accuracy impressions from the range held up under computerized scrutiny. Long story short, they did. Whereas Cleveland’s Launcher XL2, which I reviewed last year, found a lot of fairways but felt like it lacked a bit of “pop,” the HiBore XL stood up on the range and the simulator to my regular driver in terms of distance, AND it kept my ball more consistently in the fairway.

What might account for this accuracy performance? Thanks to the head shape, the driver face of the HiBore XL is 19% larger than the face of the Launcher XL2, which might be part of it. The larger face penalizes mishits (like our toe and heel contact at the range) far less. There’s also a counterbalancing weight in the shaft, which provides both control and promotes higher swing speed without losing connection between your hands and the clubhead.

Cleveland HiBore XL: The verdict

Cleveland’s initial foray into the world of AI-design appears to be a solid success. The HiBore XL is an excellent all-around driver, with plenty of “pop” and outstanding forgiveness. Both my son and I were able to work it in both directions, and the overall feel and sound were very pleasant – as long as you’re not aichmophobic. That’s the fear of sharp corners and objects with sharp corners, like triangles. (Is it just a coincidence that that word begins with “ai,” too…?)